Tucked away in a little cul-de-sac off Kensington Church Street, Maggie Jones’s – named after its most famous patron, Princess Margaret – was always a place where time stood still, as evidenced by the creak of wooden floorboards.

Now, as contractors hammered and drilled in the background ahead of reopening, manager Tim Frankel looked relieved and told The Chelsea Citizen: ‘It’s been a long time, but we’re keeping the restaurant just as it was before the fire – and hopefully everyone will appreciate that.’

Maggie’s is tucked away in Old Court Place

Surprisingly, many of Maggie Jones’s trademark features survived the blaze – the scrubbed pine tables, the soft lighting, and a jumble of curios that might have once come from stalls along Portobello Road.

The only visible change? ‘We’ve improved the staircase and added a bit of new wallpaper – Sanderson, Morris & Co. The idea is that when people walk in, they’ll think: Wow, it looks exactly the same as before the fire!’ Frankel beamed.

Cosy, rustic, informal and incurably romantic, Maggie Jones’s has been a Kensington legend since it opened in 1964. Originally called Nan’s Kitchen, it was renamed when Princess Margaret used the alias to make secret reservations for herself, her husband Anthony Armstrong-Jones, and later, her companions.

‘Princess Margaret loved our chicken and artichoke pie, which is still on the menu,’ smiled Frankel. ‘She came here with the likes of Roddy Llewellyn – her visits were very private, very discreet.’

Maggie Jones’s manager Tim Frankel

The menu was always a nostalgic nod to British comfort food: roast rump of lamb, calf’s liver with bacon and onions, Maggie’s famous fish pie, and, of course, apple crumble with custard.

‘Seventy per cent of the items on the menu in the 1960s are still there,’ Frankel said, proudly. ‘We haven’t changed a thing. Even our chefs are returning – the whole brigade.’

A message to diners on the restaurant’s Instagram page in August 2023

The blaze, in August 2023, was caused by a faulty fuse box and few imagined Maggie Jones’s would rise again from the ashes. Frankel – whose family also own the equally revered La Poule au Pot, in Belgravia – added: ‘A fireman rang me at 5am on a Saturday morning and asked, “Is that Tim Frankel?” I said yes. He said, “Your building’s on fire.” That was a bit of a shock! Fortunately, no one was hurt.’

Before the fire, Maggie Jones’s was a stalwart of the Kensington dining scene – a place where proposals were whispered over candlelight, and locals lingered for hours. Frankel puts its enduring appeal down to one thing: heart.

‘It’s a family-run business,’ he said ‘It’s had a lot of love – and a lot of heartache after Covid. We’ve put in a huge commitment. It’s an institution.’

Now, as the finishing touches are made for the re-opening, that familiar warmth looks set to return – like an old friend.

Maggie Jones’s re-opens on 10th November. For reservations call 020 7937 6462 or visit www.maggie-jones.co.uk  

All photos © John Cookson

Editor’s Note: This is John Cookson’s first contribution to The Citizen. He has been a journalist for 40 years, having worked on the Southend Evening Echo and Basildon Recorder, before moving on to Fleet Street newspapers and major international broadcasters, such as Fox News and Al Jazeera. He has lived in Kensington for 35 years.

Where to find Maggie Jones’s

Thankfully, the skilled leaders at The Peninsula hotel in Belgravia have an effortless swagger when it comes to all things F&B, so Soleil by Claude seems assured to be a shining addition to London’s summer scene.

The eighth floor of The Peninsula is usually occupied by the two-starred Brooklands restaurant. But at this time of the year, its master chef Claude Bosi and his staff need a well-earned break. Rather than leave it empty, Claude has flipped the space into a more informal dining and bar experience, serving all day, from breakfast until late for dinner.

Soleil takes full advantage of the terrace and the stunning panoramic views it offers across London, over Hyde Park and across the West End. The central theme of this pop-up is all-things Mediterranean and bringing the summer holiday vibe to this elegant corner of the city.

The menu – designed by Bosi – celebrates the classics of Continental cuisine, but made with the best produce from independent British farms. The drinks menu has been refreshed to reflect the spirit of summer, with seasonal cocktails and a twist on Spritz. There’s even a pop-up Pétanque pit, fittingly sponsored by Minuty, the creators of divine rose wine from the Saint Tropez peninsula. To ensure the party spirit of summer never sets, the terrace will host a top DJ on Friday, Saturday and Sunday each week.

Chef Bosi said: “With Soleil by Claude, we wanted to create something that feels like a deep breath of summer, the kind of place where time slows down a little. It’s inspired by those long, unhurried meals you have on holiday, where the food is generous, the conversation flows, and you don’t worry about the clock. We’ve brought together the Mediterranean spirit I love with the incredible quality of British produce, all set in the incredible setting of The Peninsula London’s eighth floor.”

A party to celebrate the opening of Soleil by Claude was held last week. It was a most convivial and exclusive affair, with a sumptuous spread of seafood and endless offerings of delicious canapés. The Peninsula’s crisp house champagne was flowing freely, as was the Minuty 281 rose, served from the winemaker’s distinctive “blue drip” magnums. Star guest of the night was The Peninsula’s owner, Sir Michael Kadoorie, who had flown in especially. To make the billionaire owner feel a little more at home, several beautiful models from his extraordinary rare car collection were parked in the hotel’s courtyard.

A particularly fitting touch of the night was the farewell party present – a bunch of blooming long-stem sunflowers.

Soleil by Claude will be open seven days a week until 31st August. Breakfast is served from 8am-11am, then lunch and dinner from 12pm-10pm.

The Brooklands restaurant will re-open on 5th September with a new autumn menu.

Book a table at Soleil by Claude here

Photos from the opening night launch party by Rowben Lantion