New York is an intense and exhausting helter-skelter ride for even the hardiest of travellers. You may even feel the need to hold your nose at the prospect of visiting Donald Trump’s fractured and fractious America, but the city that never sleeps, never fails to deliver big moments and everlasting memories…

When it comes to global cities and travel bucket lists, New York is the perennial poll winner. To borrow some immortal words from ol’ Blues Eyes himself, Frank Sinatra, it’s top of the list, king of the hill, top of the heap, a number one. And our family wanted a part of it.

To be more specific, our 16-year-old son Joseph did – and I squarely blame Hollywood. Manhattan’s mesmerising skyline has been ever-present in our living room for years, all the way from Home Alone 2 to Friends, by way of Spider-Man and a never-ending multitude of other movies, TV shows, stage plays and games. It’s impossible not to be seduced.  

As for us older folk who have been many times, the enthusiasm is more of a stretch, which is hardly assuaged by the Trump factor – and that everyone who has been recently says that New York is now terrifyingly expensive. But these vagabond shoes are longing to stray. 

The beauty of New York is that it works at any time of the year. Winter is brutally cold, but the city is warmed by festive charm, so simply wrap up and embrace the shopping, egg nog and magical lights. Summer is oppressively hot and humid, but the extended days allow you to pound the blocks for longer.

The key to NYC is to get ahead of the game. I snapped up three economy return tickets in British Airways’ winter sale in January for a bargain £400 each, so we were locked in for a June trip to celebrate our son’s end of GCSEs. I had no idea then just how bad things would be in America, thanks to Trump’s divisive rule, but there was never an option to cancel the trip.

By getting flights sorted relatively early, you have time to look around and nail down bearable hotel rates. With thousands of hotels all fighting for business, there are deals to be had at some terrific places. Obviously, the bigger chains have more rooms to fill, so why not start there. Accommodation in NYC is a minefield to navigate, so we played it safe by hopping between trusted brands. Virgin Hotels’ outpost in mid-town is cool, with a laid back style and the sort of warm welcome you would expect from Virgin folk. Friendly and fun, and nothing is a problem. The hotel has stunning views of the Empire State Building from many of the rooms, as well as from its rooftop mini swimming pool. But be prepared for queues of bathers trying to get that selfie with the iconic backdrop. I didn’t even attempt it!

A few blocks away, bang in the brightness and bedlam of Times Square, is the Tempo by Hilton, which is a smart new 36-floor tower with immaculate rooms and the most sumptuous beds imaginable. If you want to be in the absolute centre of the neon beam for a few nights, then this is the crash-pad for you.

Rather than just nibble at the Big Apple, we went for a week and did our best to gnaw it to the core. I am familiar with Manhattan, but it was truly amazing to feel it come alive again through the wide-eyed enthusiasm of a teenager. Some of my more jaded views fell away easily, like the crumbly stale bread on one of those disgusting street hot dawgs.

Naturally, all the great landmarks were on our extended To-Do list, so I pre-booked a CityPASS (from £118 each) which guarantees discounted entry to five top tourist attractions. As well as dollars, this saves a lot of on-site booking hassle – and worries about phone battery life and reception.

Day after day, and night after night, we yomped the blocks like tireless troopers in what became a century-record-breaking heat wave with temperates soaring over 100 degrees. We took in the Statue of Liberty and Ellis Island, Brooklyn Bridge, The High Line, Little Italy, Chinatown, the West Village (to hunt down the apartment exterior used for Friends) and various corners of Central Park and everywhere in-between on the Upper East and West Sides. 

The long days were draining and hard going, but we found time to slow down, and what better way to do that one day than with a champagne afternoon tea in Palm Court at The Plaza Hotel. A flute of pink bubbles and a three-tier cake stand – complete with a birthday plate of sweet goodies for me – is a fine way to escape those mean streets.

You’ve gotta go high in New York, which means the Empire State Building. To make it more interesting, we up-graded to zoom from the 86th floor to the refurbished observatory on the 102nd. Stunning. Then there’s Top of the Rock at the Rockefeller Centre. The fun new attraction here is called The Beam, where you are buckled onto a fake iron girder to re-create that iconic photo of workmen having a vertiginous lunch during construction of the skyscraper in the early 1930s. The girder suddenly rises a few metres which gives the uneasy sense that you are staring over the edge. Feet tingling, but great fun.

It’s important to balance the touristy must-sees with cultural originals, so we took in some fine art at The Frick Collection – newly re-opened and fabulous. I loved it there and strongly recommend putting it on your itinerary. The Guggenheim is also always worth a look. We also hit Broadway for Alicia Keys’ Hell’s Kitchen musical at the Schubert theatre, which was pre-booked via The Broadway Collection website. A really gutsy, stirrer of a show. Just beware of the air con – it was f-freezing!

The must-see of any trip is the Ground Zero 9/11 Memorial. Entitled ‘Reflecting Absence’, the sunken twin waterfall pools, which sit within the footprints of the original Twin Towers, are uniquely beautiful and poignant. You can stand for an age, lost in thoughts and melancholy, as you read the names of the dead and listen to the hypnotic, rhythmic running of the water.

The museum itself is solemn, moving, and magnificently curated. The collection and atmosphere was so enthralling that we experienced a family first when it comes to a museum – we had to wait outside for Joseph to finish! He was so captivated and deeply touched by the experience that he stayed far longer than his parents.

One aspect of New York that is particularly hard to get your head around and organise in advance is eating out. Where do you start? The penalty for us was ending up traipsing around for hours on end, not knowing where to go, or what to trust. With varying appetites at different times, this was a, er, recipe for disaster.

The other difficult matter to navigate is the tipping nightmare. Tipping has always been a precarious tightrope in America, especially for the more, um, money cautious of Brits. These days, it is impossible to avoid because every bill is presented to you on a tablet screen, which is pre-loaded with tipping percentage suggestions: 15, 20, 25 and – can you believe it – 30%. I was often expected to hit the 20% option for someone who had simply passed me a pre-prepared sandwich from a cooler cabinet. Good luck to anyone brave enough to select the ‘Custom Tip’ option and put in the good ol’ rule of thumb 10%. Cue snarly look of disgust.

New York is known as the “city that never sleeps”, but it is also the place that never shuts up! Its incessant soundtrack – car horns, police sirens, spluttering generators from street food carts and music screeching from swarms of rickshaws – claws at the senses. After a while it all drives you a bit crazy.

With the sensory over-load taking its toll, we ended the trip with a treat by checking into The Peninsula on Fifth Avenue for the last night. A five star dose of old-world, under-stated luxury and timeless charm was much-needed. If you can push the boat out, then go for one of their suites. 

The genteel quiet of The Pen was a blissful sanctuary from the madness outside. There’s a lot to be said for admiring the mania of Manhattan at a distance – not least when you’re in a fluffy white robe, by a top-floor swimming pool, after a trip to the spa. That’s my kind of city break!

New York is tough going, but it’s also a flag-pole family adventure that will bring unforgettable moments. It’s a mighty TICK for any citizen traveller. So, melt away your small town blues, make a brand new start of it, and go to old New York. You can make it there. It’s up-to-you-ou-ou-ou!

 

FACTS and LINKS

 

Virgin Hotels New York, Double Room from £261 per night. Visit HERE 

Tempo by Hilton New York, Double Room from £173 per night. Visit HERE

The Peninsula New York, Superior Room from £725 per night. Visit HERE 

Afternoon tea at The Plaza Hotel. Visit HERE

Theatre tickets from The Broadway Collection. Visit HERE

Tours and attractions with NYC Tourism. Visit HERE  

 British Airways. Visit HERE