Like so many long-term ski enthusiasts, I’ve had my mis-sized boot full of misery on the slopes that have left me wondering, Why bother doing that again? Get some winter sun on a beach instead.

Freezing weather, white-out days, sunburnt ears. A week of slush, or rickety beds and terrible food, I have endured them all. Back in the skiing foothills, as a teen, I even suffered four cheap holidays that involved 30-odd hours on a coach to Austria and Andorra. Pure, elbow gnawing hell – and all for what exactly? A few exhilarating fast runs on knackered hire skis and some pretty scenery.

And yet, and yet, the mystery of the mountains has always lured me back. Fleeting magical moments – gliding knee-deep through untouched powder, crystal blue skies, the purest air that chills the throat, necking hot glühwein during a cosy snow-in – are hard-won and make it all worthwhile. If skiing wasn’t such a faff, would those times still be as good?

Well, the answer is YES! Last year, I discovered a whole other world of skiing, one that is pain and hassle free, and I can testify that the good moments are still as sweet, if not sweeter. Welcome to super high-end ski holidays.

To Hindus, Machapuchare mountain in the Himalayas is the sacred home of their god Shiva. Consequently, climbing its majestic 23,000ft “fish tail” double summit has always been strictly forbidden.

Chalet Machapuchare in Val d’Isére

Closer to earth – Val d’Isére, in France, to be precise – there’s a ski chalet named in its honour and, thankfully, it is a place that you can experience. And when it comes to reaching for the peaks of style and luxury, this chalet is pretty close to the summit.

Chalet Machapuchare is the brainchild of Yoann Marchand, a ski instructor who was born and bred locally, and his wife, Charlotte Guilhamat, a designer (and a trampolinist, it should be noted!) with a beady creative eye. The couple oversaw an 18-month build from a hole in the ground to an impeccably finished chalet in an area called Le Crêt, which is just a three minute drive from the town and the main ski lifts.

“We wanted to create something that is the ultimate in style and comfort, but is also homely and welcoming,” says Yoann, as he chats by the open fire in the vaulted, wood-lined living room. That ambition has been more than realised.

Living room and vaulted ceiling

The chalet was voted France’s Best Chalet in the World Ski Awards in 2023 and 2024 and is in the running again this year. It is proudly part of a portfolio of exclusive chalets across this Alpine region managed by Purple Ski, the masters when it comes to the luxury ski travel business.

The British-owned company has been operating in the Alps since 1991 and now has nine exquisitely high-spec’ properties in three of the most popular resorts – Méribel, Courchevel, and Val d’Isère. Just added to the selection this season is Chalet Cervinia, which is also in Val d’Isère. This one is slightly smaller – it sleeps 10-13 across six bedrooms – and is, therefore, cheaper than the biggest chalets.

If the real Machapuchare in Nepal is sacred, then its elegant wood and stone namesake in this tranquil, snowy nook is truly divine – but it’s not cheap. To have a break here means renting the entire chalet for seven nights and the prices vary wildly depending on when you go.

Uber prime times, such as Christmas and February half term, will cost way north of £100,000, but during the slower months you can book this chalet for closer to £40,000. Whilst this is a tidy sum by anyone’s banking standards, it starts to make more sense when you find out what is included. I joined a small advance party of guests last season for what was the first press trip to Machapuchare to stress-test Purple’s VIP treatment and value for money.

Chalet Machapuchare is certainly beautiful, stylish and cosy, without being pretentious or unnecessarily showy. Set across five storeys, it is rich in delightful details as well as gentle luxury. The walls are thoughtfully decorated with authentic vintage skiing apparel and locally reclaimed items, such as a 19th century carriage wheel which has become the frame of a centrepiece chandelier.

In the lower sections of the building, there is a slim indoor swimming pool (incorporating a counter current for training), a spa area and steam room, massage room, a gym (er. who works out on a skiing holiday?), a cinema room and on the terrace you will find the mandatory outdoor jacuzzi with panoramic views of the entire valley. What a spot to enjoy some soothing bubbles. And that’s just the champagne.

Machapuchare comes with a staff of seven. Dressed in casual black uniforms, they move around discreetly like Ninja warriors, deftly tidying up and executing every request from guests, whether it’s mixing cocktails, delivering champagne to the hot tub, booking a masseuse, or securing a last minute table at the busiest restaurant in town.

The chalet sleeps 14 in seven stunning bedrooms, so a basic back-of-the-hand calculation means that an off-peak holiday here will cost each adult £3-4,000. Full board! Feels doable. I have no idea how much a week in a five star hotel in Val d’Isère costs, but it cannot possibly be much less. And a hotel definitely does not come with ‘exclusivity’ included – nor does it come with your own personal chef.

Each Purple Ski chalet is catered for by a top professional chef. Ours was a dynamic young Frenchman who had served in Michelin-starred restaurants. He prepared everything to exquisite perfection, from a full English breakfast, to a seven course, off-piste gastronomic wonder. The chef’s tweezers poking out of his breast pocket bore testament to the care he put into every meal. Who knew that a cucumber could be cooked so many different ways.

The Citizen’s Editor Rob McGibbon with Machapuchare owner Yoann Marchand

All food and unlimited booze – even bottomless Veuve Clicquot or Tattinger – is included with Purple Ski. You also get your own concierge service to solve every whim. Excursions, paragliding, fat bike riding, heli-skiing, cross country. Anything you want to do will be organised. Naturally, ski guides are available and all restaurant bookings on the mountains can be arranged.

As expected, skis and boots are fitted in the comfort of the chalet and chauffeurs are on hand with two executive people carriers. Those agonising walks in ski boots belong to another life. During my four days here, I only recall having to carry skis a few meters during, erm, re-fuelling breaks. When you step out of them after the last run of the day, a member of Purple staff instantly stows them away in a back up vehicle and they magically re-appear at the slopes the next day. Sheer bliss.

Cinema room

Workout room

The properties across Purple’s portfolio are often booked year-to-year by returning groups, which bears testament to the demand for the high-end ski treatment these days. The renting of exclusive chalets has also emerged as an ideal solution for mixed-generation family holidays. Recently, Chalet Machapuchare was taken over by a group that was celebrating a collection of occasions – an 18th and 50th birthdays and a diamond wedding anniversary. What a way to get everyone together for a party!

I have experienced the palaver and pain of a skiing holiday in the past on too many occasions, but there is always something amazing that makes it all worthwhile. When you are spoilt by the VIP treatment, I am delighted to report that the magic is in no way diminished. If anything, you are in a better shape to enjoy it.

A seven-night stay at Chalet Machapuchare starts from €41,280 on a catered basis. For more information and to view other luxury Purple Ski chalets visit – www.purpleski.com

Nightfall

A glimpse inside Chalet Cervinia, Purple Ski’s newest property in Val d’Isère

Visit Chalet Cervinia